how do makkah locals live?

Makkah is not only occupied by mosques, malls and hotels. To the locals, it’s their home. They live and do daily activities (work, go to school etc.) there. One of them is my friend Suhaimi. His family originally hailed from Pattani. His parents emigrated to Makkah long before he was born, so he had lived in the holy city his entire life.

I made plans to meet up with him several times during my stay, but because I was busy and he was working, it got postponed until a day before I left Makkah. He invited my family to come to his house and we happily accepted.

It was on a hill near Masjidil Haram, with a fantastic view of the clock tower. I bet it would look even better at night.

The road heading up to his house was very steep. It was quite a scary ride, felt like the car would turn over anytime! Suhaimi assured us it was fine, he had been driving up and down the road every day. After all, we were riding a huge 10 seater GMC four wheel drive, a monster of a car.

I wondered how fuel such highly powered car consumed. Apparently it wasn’t a big deal, because RON95 cost SAR 0.50/liter and RON97 cost SAR 0.65/liter. In ringgit, that would be 43 sen and 56 sen! Guess how much a liter of mineral water cost? SAR 2. No wonder Arabs drove big cars, their fuel was cheaper than water!

Welcome to Pattani neighborhood in Makkah. Yes, most of his neighbors were from Pattani too.

Suhaimi’s mum and aunt were in food business. They sold Pattani dishes to people in the neighborhood and took bulk orders supplying food to pilgrims. As soon as we arrived at their house, we were served course after course of yummy Pattani cuisines.

First course was kuih-muih. The two white ones were made of sticky rice. The brown one was something like kuih deram @ peneram @ denderam.

Second course was nasi kerabu Pattani. 

Though it might look like nasi kerabu Kelantan in a glance, I noticed one main difference – there was no solok lada. For nasi kerabu Pattani, the coconut shreds were mixed with fish, so no need to have solok lada as source of fish. Suhaimi’s aunt mentioned that their budu was also made differently. Pattani budu was cooked while Kelantan budu was raw. It tasted so good that local Arabs ate nasi kerabu Pattani just to enjoy its budu!

Third course was roti canai with kari ayam.

Fourth course was laksam. By this time I was already full, but because I loved laksam, I still grabbed a bowl. 

Each and every dish was incredibly yummy. Furthermore, after 11 days of catering food, it was really good to return to homemade food. And we were already tired of Arab dishes, so to eat authentic Pattani dishes was a welcomed change. Suhaimi’s mum and aunt even packed the food for us to bring back to the hotel.

A glimpse of the neighborhood. The houses were made of bricks and the doors were steel.

The alley leading to Suhaimi’s house.

A cute little white mosque nearby.

And we returned to the hotel feeling really full and happy. We brought back so much food, there was no way to finish them all, so we gave some to other pilgrims. Thank you to Suhaimi and his family, it was truly an amazing experience visiting a local’s home!

8 comments:

JaJa'Z said...

kat mana dieya kenal suhaimi tu..awat tak amik gambo muka tuan umah..nak la jugak tgk..ekekke..

lupa nak citer kat dieya..tok sedara akak pun dok kat mekah..but they all suami isteri dah meninggal..yang tinggal hanya anak2 dah cucu2 diaorang jek..maksudnya diaorang tu sepupu mama akak..masa arwah ayah and mama akak gi mekah dulu pun stay kat umah diaorang gak beberapa hari..akak kecik2 dulu pernah gak jumpa diaorang masa diaorang balik malaysia..but semuanya tak reti cakap melayu la..cakap arab daaaaa..hehehe

Messy Mummy said...

halllaaaa.... tgh puasa kot. pastu makanan yg dieya tayang semua mm suka. nasi kerabu ada yg terbaik. hehehe.. but mm mmg suka makan ngan solok lada. baru la ada umpphh.. but since kelapa tu dah campur ikan mmg tak perlu kot. mm just nak pedas lada tu jer ;)

laksam? huhu... juga mm suka. nasib la mm nie dah tua. kalau kanak2 riang sure g carik peti sejuk. kot2 ada dlm peti ;)

dieya, nak tanya soklan sama ngan kjaja.. mana gambar tuan rumah? hehee.. saja nak tengok :D

susumanis said...

waaa, so nice dieya bole xperienced local life kt mekah, nom nom nom all t foodies la, org siam msk mmg sedap, terliurr nih, hahaha

susumanis said...

waaa, so nice dieya bole xperienced local life kt mekah, nom nom nom all t foodies la, org siam msk mmg sedap, terliurr nih, hahaha

dieya said...

k jaja,
amboi2 cik kiah.. bz body hang ya :-p
gambo ada muka family dia yg perempuan. dekat sana they are very private, perempuan keluar rumah cover muka. so to respect their culture, rasa tak sesuai pulak tayang kat sini.
wah bagus tu, kalau k jaja ngan b zack pegi, boleh visit diorg pulak. hahaha apa lagi.. suruh tok janggut blajo ckp arab!

mm,
mmg sedap yaa amat nasi kerabu pattani tu. nampak plain but super yummy. then pekena laksam pulak, masyuk sungguh.
cik kiah no.2, sila rujuk jawapan di atas :-p

kak su,
betul kak su, mmg semuanya sedap. yg masak tu mmg buat food biz, jelas terbukti kesedapannya. apa lagi kak su, buat nasi kerabu siam utk bebuka hari ni!

Hjh Noralenna Abbas said...

Aunty enjoy lah baca pengalaman dieya di mekah. Terusnkan!

ahkakbatik said...

masyaAllah... masyaAllah... macam cerita nur kasih lah...
rumah turun naik tangga hari-hari mau habis kalori lah..

neighbourhood tu crowded tak? jiran2 depa ramah tak?

dieya said...

aunty nora,
thanks! baik, akan diteruskan. tinggal sikit je lagi nak tamat.

kaktek,
org amerika tengok nur kasih? ana sgt kagum lah. kalau ente naik itu tangga, boleh slim macam itu tiz zaqyah lah.
ana tidak ketuk itu rumah jiran lah. ente pigi bawa swiss roll baru ketuk, untung2 dapat laksam semangkuk lah.